With my stomach bursting with curried fish and cassava (a chalk-like root vegetable) from a caged street vender in the heart of Suva’s street market I hop on a bus and start the journey up into the city’s surrounding rain forest.
There is never a dull moment on Fiji’s buses. They’re like nightclubs. 70 cents day raves. As the old colonial speakers pump out the heaviest bass this side of Berlin, the only thing that restrains the passengers from jumping from their seats and throwing shapes is the torturous sound of a screaming engine.
As the bus crawls up the mountain road I have time to take in a magnificent view of Suva harbor and surrounding islands as it appears behind – the downward journey is much less picturesque, my eyes are closed while my cold, wet, cramped hands are gripped to the old woman next to me. Fiji has the largest population of budding racing drivers in the world I recon, only the numbers of crashes taint their reputation… phsss… statistics are for geeks.
Colo-i-Suva Forestry Park is a hidden paradise, a stark contrast to the bustling city that lives only a few kilometers below. As I walk alone and silent along the path deeper into the forest I start to feel increasingly self conscious. With every strange sound, every dropping leaf, and every scratch on my bare skin I fear attack!
Alas, reality wasn’t as exciting and my paranoia resides, my hallucinations cease and after 30 minutes of trekking I arrive at the first the forest’s many waterfalls and freshwater pools. Crystal clear, bitterly cold, and full of fresh water Lobster… this beats the sea any day.
Continue through the forest and you discover many, many more…
… the last of which was the biggest, most impressive and most populated. Until now I hadn’t seen another sole, but with the attraction of a 15 foot high swing rope and a deep (well deep enough) pool, this was clearly the local’s choice.
I felt slightly out of places. Not because I was the only gringo but because I came with no rum and because there was no way I could match the ridiculous backflips the 10 year olds were executing. But before I had time for that I was initiated into the group by the older members, this consisted simply of about 15 shots of 58% proof Fijian rum (it was 11:30am). I recon it was those ghetto buses, got them in the mood to party! Well I was on the same buses so I was only too happy to oblige.
Hi
The park looks wonderful. We are hoping to go there in April and have done a lot of prep. Just wondering a couple of things but don’t worry if you don’t have time to filter the memory banks for details. I will be going by bus and have seen a bus station on google maps by the suva markets. Harris Rd I think, is this a place to catch a bus to Colo-i-suva park? The other query is we would like a guide from the information centre to point out the flora and fauna. Do we need to book these or are there plenty of knowledgable guides available.
Kind regards
Terry.
Hi Terry,
You’re right, the bus station next to the market is the right place to get the bus to Colo-I-Suva. It’s pretty easy to find – just get a cab if you are having trouble, it will only cost about $3 from most places in Suva. One of my biggest tips for having an enjoyable time in Fiji is to always ask taxi drivers to turn on their fare meters when you get in. It’s law for them to use them but often they will not for tourists who know no better. It will save you a small fortune! (This won’t work in Nadi, mind you, they simply refuse but taxis should never be over $5 around town)
Anyway, you will have to ask someone where the bus goes from (e.g. which corner of the bus station) and which bus it is – this will not be signed but people will be very helpful. The bus ticket should be $1.15.
The guys at the park will be more than happy to show you around the little exhibition they have at the information centre (where you pay your $5 entry fee), whether-or-not they will walk you around the park I don’t know but you can ask them when you get there – I wouldn’t bother ringing ahead. It’s not a busy spot, especially during the week, and doesn’t see many tourists – it’s wonderful!
I hope you enjoy it, let me know how you get on or if you need help with anything else in Suva.
Matt